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Schimano Specs - a definitive guide anywhere??

(18 posts)
  • Started 11 years ago by DaveC
  • Latest reply from DaveC
  • This topic is resolved

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  1. DaveC
    Member

    Does anyone have alink to a guide to Schimano compnents as a comparison of their ranges please?

    Looking at new cassettes for my CX / winter commuter, I saw HG40 HG50, HG70-C???? etc... I also saw 4600, 4603, 4625 etc...

    I found via Sheldon's webpage that HG is Hyperglide - a shaping of the teeth to facilitate smoth gear changes, but was unable to find a guide with what each are and how they compare. Of course the price increases but as I like to buy 'middle of the range' components, I have no form of reference. I assume the more expensive the lighter the components, and a freind who broke two different rings on two different cassettes, it also appears the more expensive the kit, the lighter (and perhaps the less robust the components).

    Cheers,

    Dave C

    Posted 11 years ago #

  2. steveo
    Member

    The group set loosely defines the quality band then there will be a product number which slots into this band. Your example of 4600 is chainsets I think. 46* is the quality band Tiagra, then 4603 is triple 4600 is the "normal" double and 4660 are compacts. I think.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano#Road_groupsets

    Posted 11 years ago #

  3. steveo
    Member

    If you're just needing a new cassette can I recommend SRAM, they seem to be a big tougher and cheaper. I got about 2 years out of one with fairly big mileage and replacing a couple of chains.

    PG950 or PG970 not much between them, just a little weight and cash.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  4. Baldcyclist
    Member

    I would buy (I actually might do on Friday) http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-tiagra-4600-10-speed-cassette/ in the 12-30 variety for my bike, similarly specced to yours.

    I recently replaced my chain with this 105 one: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-105-cn-5701-10-speed-chain/ , it works fine but I should probably have done both cassette and chain at same time. Thought I woud let the cassette get trashed over winter.

    £37 for the two, should keep you going for the next 6 months or so....

    Oh, EDIT. If you need chain splitter / cassette remover etc, I have the various bits and bobs required to complete such a job with only minimal blood loss.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  5. Arellcat
    Moderator

    BikeFan mentioned Shimano groupsets and inter-component compatibility here:

    http://citycyclingedinburgh.info/bbpress/topic.php?id=7132

    linking to Bicycling - Shimano Road Bike Parts Compatibility.

    The gold standard used to be the ADFC Fachausschuss Technik page, Herstellerinfos but it only goes up to the 2006 model year.

    But BikeFan's link is based upon scrutiny of Shimano's own technical documents:

    http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp

    in which components are listed with part numbers and compatibility; the documents beginning with "SI" are the gatefold service instructions we all known and love and rarely read.

    Very loosely, HG70 and above is preferable for quality of performance, weight, and corrosion resistance. In groupsettery, I would go for 105 and Ultegra, or SLX and XT. For chains I've been very happy with the performance of Sram's bog standard PC951 for 9 speed.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  6. DaveC
    Member

    Cheers Steveo, I found by opening multiple pages on the Schimano website I can flick betwee the models. I think I would have the 4603 (triple) but I need to see if I can replace just the chainrings instead of the whole chainset.

    @Mark, I have arranged to corrow a coupple of items from Gavin in Dalgety Bay, but thanks for the offer, thats is very much appreciated.

    I have ordered new chain and cassette, and hope to change them over at the weekend or after the parts arrive. I hadn't considered changing the components until after the winter, but even so cycling is a pain with the current drivetrain as it just jumps at the most difficult points, like accelerating from traffic lights etc... in traffic.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  7. Baldcyclist
    Member

    I think I would have the 4603 (triple) but I need to see if I can replace just the chainrings instead of the whole chainset.

    You would need to replace the chainset, including spider, and your shifters. A double shifter won't work with a tripple spider, the indexing is different.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  8. kaputnik
    Moderator

    Joe in Bikeworks told me that the alloy composition changes on the chainrings as you move up a specification to make them lighter, replacing steel with lighter, but ultimately less hard wearing things.

    Shimano chainrings can be hugely confusing as the come in both A and B types (odd or even teeth numbers). Officialy you can't have an A ring with a B on the other, but it's nonsense and you can, it just makes the shifting slightly clunkier as the "hyperglide" ramps to shift the chain between the rings are slightly out of alignment.

    But then if you are buying an Ultegra chainring you're probably not looking for good commuting miles out of the thing.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  9. Tom
    Member

    kaputnik: "ultimately less hard wearing things"

    Dura Ace chain-rings used to be nickel plated, presumably to reduce wear. It comes off in tiny razor-like shards.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  10. crowriver
    Member

    If you're just needing a new cassette can I recommend SRAM, they seem to be a big tougher and cheaper.

    Yes, I agree.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  11. wingpig
    Member

    Last time I chewed up a Sora chainring with a worn chain I replaced the middle ring with a solid steel one from my old bike, which is still looking nicely fully-toothed whilst the current cassette (the second since the chainring-chewing) is starting to skip on particular sprockets.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  12. DaveC
    Member

    My STIs are triple so I won't need new ones thankfully. I do need to investigate putting new chainrings on the chainset to make it a triple. I'm sute though that the centre section won't allow it :-(

    Posted 11 years ago #

  13. steveo
    Member

    Nah, if the spider is designed for a compact you'll not be able to put three on. New Tiagra chainsets are only 50-60 quid but you might have to replace your derailleurs as well.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  14. kaputnik
    Moderator

    Yes you won't get triple rings on a double (compact or standard). You may or may not need a new derailleur, some of the Shimano ones seem compatible with either, if you get the limit screws right. If it's the Hollowtech type of cranks, you'll need a whole new crankset basically (or perhaps it's possible to just buy the drive side crank and spider, as they both use the same non-drive side crank).

    Posted 11 years ago #

  15. DaveC
    Member

    Hmm all good info. I have thoroughly degreased washed and re oiled the chain, cassette and the derailuirs. There is a lot of play in the chain and just spinning it on the stand I can see the chain riding up the front chainring. I have a new spare chain but am reluctant to change just the chain as I have done this in the past and the result is worse than now with constant skipping on the rear cassette. Just waiting for Wiggle to deliver. Tempted to ride my Dawes instead but snow & more ice is forcast.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  16. DaveC
    Member

    Damb, tightened the cassette nut instead of loosening, mistakenly thinking it was the old type (you can tell how long its been since I changed a cassette). Then bent the cheepo (aldi??) chain whip trying to loosen. The worn teeth mean the chain kept coming off so I taped the chain to the cassette to hold it on.

    Looking at new chain whips they all look a bit whimpy (but need to replace the borrowed one), and I have found an old flat bladed crow bar in my garage (left from previous owner) and a length of new unused chain, which I intend to make into a 'brute force' chain whip at the weekend. The one on the Youtube video (god those yanks are flippin egomaniacs) showed a 'rear brute force' chain whip.

    In the mean time I have contacted the local independant bike mech and he's going to undo the cassette (I expect more brute force required and some sort of professional Chain Whip??) so I can pop the new one on.

    [Glum]

    Posted 11 years ago #

  17. crowriver
    Member

    It's the lockring you over tightened? With the right extractor hopefully souldn't be a big problem to remove.

    Posted 11 years ago #

  18. DaveC
    Member

    Tis done B-)

    I strong armed the thing using the bench to lean against, with both hands on the new chain whip to hold it on, I wedged one foot on the rim and used the other foot to push down on the mahoosive spannerto loosen the over tightened nut. The new cassette went on very easily and I just nipped it tight ;-)

    The bike runs lovely now O:-)

    Posted 11 years ago #

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